The origins and revival of Fil Au Chinois
Fil Au Chinois, a historic sewing thread brand, is emblematic of French haberdashery. Known for its iconic balls of thread featuring a Chinese character, the brand has survived the ages by adapting to cultural and industrial changes. But where did this unique name come from? This article will explore the fascinating origins of this brand, its remarkable expansion throughout Europe, and its revival in the 21st century.
Why is it called Fil Au Chinois?
The name Fil Au Chinois dates back to a time when Orientalism was in vogue in France. This fascination with the Orient became popular with Bonaparte’s Egyptian expedition in 1798, the conquest of Algeria by France in 1830, and 25 years later, the opening of China and Japan further fueled this interest. The birth of the Au Chinois brand fits perfectly into this cultural movement.
In French, "Fil Au Chinois" (literally "Thread of the Chinese") means "thread whose image is a Chinese man." This way of naming brands was common in the 19th century when many brands chose recognizable characters or objects for customers who often could not read.
The Fil Au Chinois brand was officially registered in November 1847 by François-Philibert Vrau, who had founded his company in Lille some 20 years earlier. This registration was motivated by a new way of presenting thread: balls wrapped with a label and arranged in boxes.
Fil Au Chinois: An exceptional success
The brand truly gained momentum in the 1850s with the arrival of Philibert Vrau, the founder’s son. Philibert Vrau (1829-1905) lived an extraordinary life. Single by choice, he ran the company with great success and reinvested its profits into numerous social causes.
A key figure among Lille’s business leaders, Philibert Vrau was also the primary founder of the ICAM, a Catholic engineering school. His exceptional business sense was reflected in the way he managed the company. His success was all the more impressive given that he did not dedicate all his time to running the business.
Fil Au Chinois conquers Europe!
One of the key strategies implemented by Philibert Vrau was a strict pricing policy, at a time when competitors were disorganized and applied low prices indiscriminately. He also introduced a loyalty bonus system. An impeccable organization in both the offices and the workshops, well-treated staff, and an efficient team of representatives contributed to the brand's success.
By 1875, annual sales soared from 282,000 boxes in 1864 to 1,950,000 boxes. Each box contained 48 spools of 50 meters of thread, amounting to 93 million spools at peak sales, which was the equivalent of three spools per Frenchman per year!
Like many other brands in Northern France, Fil Au Chinois faced a long period of decline due to the arrival of domestic sewing machines, which were incompatible with linen thread, as well as industrial difficulties and misaligned commercial policies.
The revival of Fil Au Chinois
While production numbers for Fil Au Chinois were steadily decreasing, the interest in vintage advertising objects and old products grew among collectors. Fil Au Chinois could have disappeared had it not been for the determined efforts of two industrialists, Olivier and Bruno Toulemonde. In charge of Ets Toulemonde, one of the last French thread manufacturers, the brothers understood the importance of reviving the history of Fil Au Chinois.
In 2007, Olivier and Bruno Toulemonde took up the challenge of reviving Fil Au Chinois, bringing it back to its former glory. They overcame numerous obstacles, including restoring machines, some dating back to 1890.
All the Fil Au Chinois linen star cards
Frédérique Crestin-Billet, a passionate collector and a key figure in the revival of the Sajou brand, contributed to restoring the high-quality packaging that once defined Fil Au Chinois.
All the Fil Au Chinois linen thread capsules
All the Fil Au Chinois sewing threads
Have you discovered Frédérique Crestin-Billet’s book?
In her book, Frédérique Crestin-Billet, also known as Madame Sajou, explores the fascinating history of numerous thread brands, including Fil Au Chinois. You’ll also find a rich collection of vintage thread labels, old thread cards, and color ranges—a captivating world for lovers of vintage haberdashery.
Discover Frédérique Crestin-Billet’s book Au rayon des Fils
