Indienne fabric embroidery - Museum and Heritage - Second part
Second part of the discovery of Indienne fabric cross stitch pattern chart.
To read the first part: Indienne fabric embroidery first part.
To read the first part: Indienne fabric embroidery first part.
Embroidering the fabric squares
Each of the motifs is embroidered on a square of linen which is then placed on the yellow background. The colour to use is indicated next to each of the designs.
Once the samples are embroidered, cut the fabric again, leaving 1 cm all around. Fold flush with the embroidery, following the straight grain of the fabric.
Mark the folds with an iron, pink the corners and tack.
Place these fabric samples onto the main linen base and sew them securely into place with small invisible stitches.
Iron on the reverse side, placing a layer between the embroidery and the iron, a towel for example.
The four palmette patterns are each embroidered on a square of linen, then, with pinking scissors,
you will cut them so as to obtain rectangles of 5.5 x 10 cm,
the pattern embroidered on the brown being a little shorter to accentuate the look of fabric samples.
Then, by overlapping them as shown in on the pattern, sew them firmly onto the mustard fabric with back stitch.
Once the samples are embroidered, cut the fabric again, leaving 1 cm all around. Fold flush with the embroidery, following the straight grain of the fabric.
Mark the folds with an iron, pink the corners and tack.
Place these fabric samples onto the main linen base and sew them securely into place with small invisible stitches.
Iron on the reverse side, placing a layer between the embroidery and the iron, a towel for example.
The four palmette patterns are each embroidered on a square of linen, then, with pinking scissors,
you will cut them so as to obtain rectangles of 5.5 x 10 cm,
the pattern embroidered on the brown being a little shorter to accentuate the look of fabric samples.
Then, by overlapping them as shown in on the pattern, sew them firmly onto the mustard fabric with back stitch.
Coromandel indienne fabric
François de l'Estra, an officer with the East India Company, embarked in 1671, at the age of 21, on a five-year voyage. We know from his account of his journey that “it is in the town of Tranquebar and the Coromandel coast that are found the most beautiful chites (printed and painted cotton fabrics) and other striped and flowered fabrics of all sorts that we see in such great abundance in France. […] A piece of striped or flowered fabric, of whatever colour, of fifteen or sixteen cubits costs only one crown. […] A beautiful dressing gown with very fine flowers, only forty sous…”.
We have printed this Coromandel fabric on a bright yellow background, like some indienne fabrics of yesteryear, which were dyed with turmeric.
In our section Indienne fabrics in fat quarters , by clicking on Find out more about…,
you can read a detailed article on the fabrication of indiennes fabrics, in India as well as in Europe.
you can read a detailed article on the fabrication of indiennes fabrics, in India as well as in Europe.
Jaipur and Bangalore indienne fabrics
During what was known as the Indienne Prohibition (edict of October 26, 1686), the sale of these fabrics could lead to hanging
and merely wearing them could lead to the gallows. Despite these severe punishments, active smuggling is taking place.
The idea of this prohibition was to protect weavers of silk, wool, linen and hemp.
But, from the beginning of the 1680s, many Huguenot artisans, persecuted because of their Protestant religion,
went into exile to Switzerland, and in particular to Geneva.
This is how Daniel Vasserot and Antoine Fazy, who came from the Queyras region, created there, from 1690,
the first three indienne factories whose production was illegally sold into France and England, where they were also prohibited.
A threshold had been crossed: smuggling was no longer simply fuelled by products of Indian origin, but also by European products.
and merely wearing them could lead to the gallows. Despite these severe punishments, active smuggling is taking place.
The idea of this prohibition was to protect weavers of silk, wool, linen and hemp.
But, from the beginning of the 1680s, many Huguenot artisans, persecuted because of their Protestant religion,
went into exile to Switzerland, and in particular to Geneva.
This is how Daniel Vasserot and Antoine Fazy, who came from the Queyras region, created there, from 1690,
the first three indienne factories whose production was illegally sold into France and England, where they were also prohibited.
A threshold had been crossed: smuggling was no longer simply fuelled by products of Indian origin, but also by European products.
Pondicherry and Chandernagore indienne fabrics
We have given the names of famous Indian cities to these fabrics which all, directly or indirectly, have a historical connection with textiles.
Chandernagore is a town which was founded, on the basis of three small villages, founded by a Frenchman, François Martin.
This same François Martin officially became, in 1685, the “director of the Coromandel Coast”.
Under his leadership, Pondicherry became one of the bridgeheads for French trade with India, with the Compagnie des Indes having many different stores there.
Chandernagore is a town which was founded, on the basis of three small villages, founded by a Frenchman, François Martin.
This same François Martin officially became, in 1685, the “director of the Coromandel Coast”.
Under his leadership, Pondicherry became one of the bridgeheads for French trade with India, with the Compagnie des Indes having many different stores there.
The famous Coquecigrues indienne fabric
After Switzerland, the manufacture of indiennes reached Mulhouse, at the time an independent republic allied with the Swiss cantons.
It was there that in 1746, Samuel Koechlin and Jean Henri Dollfus created the first indienne factory.
They were followed by others, who made Mulhouse, with around fifteen factories, the first European capital of cotton, well before Manchester.
Still illegally, it was Swiss Protestants who organized the main centres of indienne manufacturing in France,
in Marseille (1746), Nantes (1754), Rouen and Bolbec in Normandy (1756).
Prohibition was officially lifted in 1759, Christophe Oberkampf set up in 1760 near Versailles, in Jouy-en-Josas,
what would become one of the most important manufacturers of indienne prints, including the famous fabrics with characters.
This is where this famous Les Coquecigrues pattern was created, which you will also find in the large pattern dedicated to the toile de Jouy .
It was there that in 1746, Samuel Koechlin and Jean Henri Dollfus created the first indienne factory.
They were followed by others, who made Mulhouse, with around fifteen factories, the first European capital of cotton, well before Manchester.
Still illegally, it was Swiss Protestants who organized the main centres of indienne manufacturing in France,
in Marseille (1746), Nantes (1754), Rouen and Bolbec in Normandy (1756).
Prohibition was officially lifted in 1759, Christophe Oberkampf set up in 1760 near Versailles, in Jouy-en-Josas,
what would become one of the most important manufacturers of indienne prints, including the famous fabrics with characters.
This is where this famous Les Coquecigrues pattern was created, which you will also find in the large pattern dedicated to the toile de Jouy .
In our section Indienne fabrics by the metre, by clicking on Find out more about…, you can read
a fascinating detailed article on the history of indiennes fabrics, known as "The Affair of Painted Cloths".
a fascinating detailed article on the history of indiennes fabrics, known as "The Affair of Painted Cloths".
Cashmere and paisley fabrics
So-called cashmere or palmette patterns come from Iran where they were most often printed on shawls or handkerchiefs.
In Persian, they are called boteh, which means bush. They are also said to represent a cypress, an important symbol in various oriental religions.
In English, they are called paisley, after the Scottish town of Paisley, once famous for its paisley prints.
Ironically, paisley patterns experienced a surge of interest in the 1960s,
being assimilated to psychedelic patterns, particularly under the influence of... The Beatles!
In Persian, they are called boteh, which means bush. They are also said to represent a cypress, an important symbol in various oriental religions.
In English, they are called paisley, after the Scottish town of Paisley, once famous for its paisley prints.
Ironically, paisley patterns experienced a surge of interest in the 1960s,
being assimilated to psychedelic patterns, particularly under the influence of... The Beatles!
In the section dedicated to all of our products on the theme of indiennes, by clicking on Find out more…,
you can discover the origins of the names given to indiennes: painted cloth, calico, chintz, kalencars, Palampores
chintz, nankeen, khaddar, poplin, muslin, twill, batiste, percale…
you can discover the origins of the names given to indiennes: painted cloth, calico, chintz, kalencars, Palampores
chintz, nankeen, khaddar, poplin, muslin, twill, batiste, percale…
The signature
I highly encourage you to sign your project in simple letters next to the Maison Sajou signature. All works of art deserve to be signed by the author!
Discover all the indienne fabrics kits and pattern charts in the Museum and Heritage Collection
Also check out our large embroidery about indienne fabrics and toiles de Jouy by Oberkampf Manufacture.
We also recommend reading our article about the Oberkampf Manufacture
which printed the toile de Jouy fabrics as well as many indienne fabrics.
which printed the toile de Jouy fabrics as well as many indienne fabrics.
