Indienne fabric embroidery - Museum and Heritage - First part
Inspiration source for embroidery
Indienne fabrics are a magical world of patterns and colours. Not to mention that their story is absolutely fascinating.
I had been thinking about creating wanted to create a beautiful pattern chart on this theme for a long time,
especially with my passion of interpreting fabrics in cross-stitch.
What finally set me on this direction was a visit in July 2023 to the apartments of Marie Antoinette in the Versailles Palace.
The recent renovation of her private apartments led to the discovery of some exceptional fabrics,
one in particular – the Queen’s Pineapple – which decorated her private dining room.
You will see in this pattern nods to other creations in the Museums and Heritage collection,
like the Coquecigrues from our Jouy collection or the indienne in Napoleon’s tent from our series dedicated to the Emperor and Josephine.
Enjoy your journey through these colourful fabrics, full of joy and as popular as ever.
I had been thinking about creating wanted to create a beautiful pattern chart on this theme for a long time,
especially with my passion of interpreting fabrics in cross-stitch.
What finally set me on this direction was a visit in July 2023 to the apartments of Marie Antoinette in the Versailles Palace.
The recent renovation of her private apartments led to the discovery of some exceptional fabrics,
one in particular – the Queen’s Pineapple – which decorated her private dining room.
You will see in this pattern nods to other creations in the Museums and Heritage collection,
like the Coquecigrues from our Jouy collection or the indienne in Napoleon’s tent from our series dedicated to the Emperor and Josephine.
Enjoy your journey through these colourful fabrics, full of joy and as popular as ever.
The mustard linen colour seemed obvious to me for this chart, bright yellow being one of the historic indienne colours.
Each of the fabric samples being embroidered on a square of linen of a specific colour, this warm yellow makes them stand out well.
The pattern is 345 stitches on each which, when embroidered over 2 threads on 12 count linen, gives a finished work measuring 57.5 x 57.5 cm.
In order to leave you sufficient margin for the finishing touches, I recommend a 70 x 70 cm swatch.
Each of the fabric samples being embroidered on a square of linen of a specific colour, this warm yellow makes them stand out well.
The pattern is 345 stitches on each which, when embroidered over 2 threads on 12 count linen, gives a finished work measuring 57.5 x 57.5 cm.
In order to leave you sufficient margin for the finishing touches, I recommend a 70 x 70 cm swatch.
The title of the embroidery
As many colours were needed to embroider all the fabric samples,
I chose to use most of them for these large striped letters, which creates a continuity between all the indiennes.
I chose to use most of them for these large striped letters, which creates a continuity between all the indiennes.
Coat of arms of the French East India Company
Founded in August 1664 under the instigation of Jean-Baptiste Colbert, minister of Louis XIV, the first French East India Company had a triple objective: to develop trade to compete with English and Dutch products, to maintain French presence on the seas, and spread French civilization by evangelizing non-Christian populations.
The headquarters were first in Le Havre, then at the newly created port of L'Orient (later Lorient). Among the commercial issues, Indian cotton plays a very important role. It is estimated that around ten ships arrived in Lorient each year from Pondicherry and Calcutta.
At the same time, Colbert became closer to the Armenian community of Marseille, which had links with the Orient. He granted free port status to Marseille and asked the Armenians to teach the French the technique of indiennage.
After the death of Colbert (1683), his successor, Louvois, intended to oppose the success of the indienne fabrics, in response to the grievances of French textile producers, who were very angry about what they deemed unfair competition. In 1686, a ban on selling, wearing and even copying the colourful indienne fabrics was imposed. It lasted until 1759 but was largely circumvented by brazen smuggling, fuelled by, among others, the sailors of the East India Company!
The headquarters were first in Le Havre, then at the newly created port of L'Orient (later Lorient). Among the commercial issues, Indian cotton plays a very important role. It is estimated that around ten ships arrived in Lorient each year from Pondicherry and Calcutta.
At the same time, Colbert became closer to the Armenian community of Marseille, which had links with the Orient. He granted free port status to Marseille and asked the Armenians to teach the French the technique of indiennage.
After the death of Colbert (1683), his successor, Louvois, intended to oppose the success of the indienne fabrics, in response to the grievances of French textile producers, who were very angry about what they deemed unfair competition. In 1686, a ban on selling, wearing and even copying the colourful indienne fabrics was imposed. It lasted until 1759 but was largely circumvented by brazen smuggling, fuelled by, among others, the sailors of the East India Company!
The coat of arms of the French East India Company was accompanied by a Latin motto Florebo quocumque ferar
(I will flourish wherever I go).
Here, a polychrome wooden version located at the Compagnie des Indes Museum, in Lorient.
(I will flourish wherever I go).
Here, a polychrome wooden version located at the Compagnie des Indes Museum, in Lorient.
In our section Indienne fabrics by the metre, by clicking on Find out more about…, you can read
a fascinating detailed article on the history of indiennes fabrics, known as "The Affair of Painted Cloths".
a fascinating detailed article on the history of indiennes fabrics, known as "The Affair of Painted Cloths".
The indiennes fabrics in the embroidery
The Queen’s pineapple at Versailles palace
This indienne decorated the dining room of Marie Antoinette's private apartments at the Palace of Versailles.
The original fabric, known as Toile au Grand Ananas, was printed by the Oberkampf Manufactory in Jouy.
The stretched version used for the restoration of the apartments was carried out by Maison Pierre Frey.
This exotic fruit was highly prized by the Court and by the Queen, who had a “pineapple portrait” painted by Jean-Baptiste Oudry hung in her gilded cabinet.
The original fabric, known as Toile au Grand Ananas, was printed by the Oberkampf Manufactory in Jouy.
The stretched version used for the restoration of the apartments was carried out by Maison Pierre Frey.
This exotic fruit was highly prized by the Court and by the Queen, who had a “pineapple portrait” painted by Jean-Baptiste Oudry hung in her gilded cabinet.
The boudoir of the Queen's private apartments at the Palace of Versailles hung with Indian style restored by Maison Pierre Frey.
The Queen's Pineapple fabric which decorates the dining room and boudoir of the private apartments has a fairly large pattern.
I had to reduce the size for this cross-stitch interpretation in order to obtain an attractive repeat pattern to embroider. We have printed this embroidery pattern on a fabric.
I had to reduce the size for this cross-stitch interpretation in order to obtain an attractive repeat pattern to embroider. We have printed this embroidery pattern on a fabric.
The “portrait” of a pineapple found in the queen’s private apartments, painted by Jean-Baptiste Oudry (1686-1755).
This fruit, discovered by Europeans during the Spanish conquest of the New World, was cultivated in royal gardens from the end of the 17th century.
This fruit, discovered by Europeans during the Spanish conquest of the New World, was cultivated in royal gardens from the end of the 17th century.
Oriental flowers indienne fabric
In addition to the fact that they were printed on fine cotton fabrics, then unknown in Europe, the success of indiennes in the 17th century was also largely due to their exuberant exotic flowers, full of mysterious charm. The enthusiasm was not only among the aristocracy – innkeepers and shopkeepers also wore them made into skirts, camisoles, aprons and headscarves. The craze for indienne prints reached all levels of the population, from duchesses to the ordinary folk.
In addition to their appealing aesthetic, indiennes also had the advantage of being easily washable (and therefore hygienic),
which was not the case for thick woollen sheets, fragile silks or heavy velvet brocades.
In addition to their appealing aesthetic, indiennes also had the advantage of being easily washable (and therefore hygienic),
which was not the case for thick woollen sheets, fragile silks or heavy velvet brocades.
This Oriental Flowers pattern was printed between 1789 and 1792 at the Oberkampf Manufactory.
On another background, you will also find it in our large pattern devoted to Toile de Jouy and indiennes produced in Jouy-en-Josas, near Versailles.
On another background, you will also find it in our large pattern devoted to Toile de Jouy and indiennes produced in Jouy-en-Josas, near Versailles.
Portrait of Madame de Pompadour dressed in a splendid indienne print dress. She is here at her embroidery loom. This portrait was painted shortly before the death of the marquise by François-Hubert Drouais (1727-1775).
It is kept in the National Gallery, London.
It is kept in the National Gallery, London.
Napoleon’s Indienne fabric
This indienne was used to decorate the interior of Emperor Napoleon's campaign tent, a reconstruction of which can be seen at the Château de Fontainebleau.
It is possible that it was printed by the Oberkampf factory in Jouy.
This motif also appears in our large pattern dedicated to Napoleon and Joséphine and is also available as a fabric print.
It is possible that it was printed by the Oberkampf factory in Jouy.
This motif also appears in our large pattern dedicated to Napoleon and Joséphine and is also available as a fabric print.
In our section Indienne fabrics in fat quarters , by clicking on Find out more about…,
you can reada detailed article on the fabrication of indiennes fabrics, in India as well as in Europe.
you can reada detailed article on the fabrication of indiennes fabrics, in India as well as in Europe.
The border of the embroidery
The border design is an interpretation of that of the Queen's pineapple fabric.
As is often the case for beautiful indienne prints in France during the 18th century, the main motif was accompanied by one or more borders.
The ones with a large scale were used for hangings on either side of the walls, as you can see in the photo of the Queen's boudoir above.
Another with smaller motifs was used to make curtains, cushions or armrests for armchairs, fireplace screens, etc.
Be careful when embroidering the corners, they are all different:
we respected the principle of straight strips of fabric which were folded to form the corners, as upholsterers do.
As is often the case for beautiful indienne prints in France during the 18th century, the main motif was accompanied by one or more borders.
The ones with a large scale were used for hangings on either side of the walls, as you can see in the photo of the Queen's boudoir above.
Another with smaller motifs was used to make curtains, cushions or armrests for armchairs, fireplace screens, etc.
Be careful when embroidering the corners, they are all different:
we respected the principle of straight strips of fabric which were folded to form the corners, as upholsterers do.
To read the second part : Indienne fabric embroidery - second part.
See all the Indienne fabrics kits and pattern charts in the Museum and Heritage Collection
In the section dedicated to all of our products on the theme of indiennes, by clicking on Find out more…,
you can discover the origins of the names given to indiennes: painted cloth, calico, chintz, kalencars, Palampores
chintz, nankeen, khaddar, poplin, muslin, twill, batiste, percale…
you can discover the origins of the names given to indiennes: painted cloth, calico, chintz, kalencars, Palampores
chintz, nankeen, khaddar, poplin, muslin, twill, batiste, percale…
We also recommend reading our article about the Oberkampf Manufacture
which printed the toile de Jouy fabrics as well as many indienne fabrics.
which printed the toile de Jouy fabrics as well as many indienne fabrics.
