LEATHERWORK

Fil Au Chinois, global leader for leathercraft threads

Fil Au Chinois is a 100% French brand, even if the name has a particular resonance with a period when many products are made in China. The name dates back to the 19th century, an era when all things Oriental were particularly fashionable.
Read the history of Fil Au Chinois in Madame Sajou’s Diary.

How to choose threads for leathercraft

Industrially made threads, whether cotton, linen or polyester can be waxed, meaning they are dipped in a bath of starch and beeswax, plus other ingredients, depending on the manufacturer. These recipes are normally a closely guarded secret.
Some crafters prefer to wax their threads themselves using a bar of beeswax. In the past, a “pitch” was used to wax threads, a mix of resin and tar. This practise is rare today, but there are still a few craftsmen who prefer this method.

The French brand Fil Au Chinois

The brand Fil Au Chinois was founded in 1847 by Philibert Vrau, specialising in linen threads. Other threads would be developed later, such as cotton thread, polyester sewing threads and the famous gloving thread. But during the 19th century, linen threads were used for all types of domestic sewing. The arrival of domestic sewing machines in the 1930’s led to the development of finer threads, with the post war years seeing a surge in creative stitching, demanding a more varied range of threads.

Fil Au Chinois waxed linen thread

This waxed linen thread exists in different presentations, Fil Au Chinois having decided to conserve those that have made their reputation. These twisted linen threads are waxed, meaning they have passed through a bath of beeswax and starch, plus other ingredients which shall remain secret. They are then brushed with horsehair and stretched. The waxing process makes the linen thread smooth and resistant.
You will often see on our threads the French word “Retors”. This signifies that the thread is made of strands that are twisted together. All sewing threads are twisted, but this twisting can differ from thread to thread.
These threads can be used for leathercraft, but also for solid stitching for buttons on coats for example, heavy fabrics and even for jewellery crafts, model making and book binding. This thread is recommended mainly for hand stitching, unless you have a powerful professional sewing machine.

Waxed linen star cards

The star cards hold 20 metres of twisted waxed linen N°40 with a diametre of 0.43 millimetres. This is the original presentation from days gone by where the image was discovered as the thread was used. The six different motifs on the cards represent advertisement images for Fil Au Chinois over different periods and are randomly picked when wound on a century old machine.

Small spools of waxed linen thread

These classic spools contain 30 metres of waxed linen thread, the same thread as on the star cards with the same diametre: 0.43 millimetres. There are 23 colours available.

Waxed linen capsules

These capsules hold 50 metres of linen thread, in the same colours and thickness as the star cards and spools. Another historical presentation, but now the capsules are made of plastic instead of cardboard. When Philibert Vrau brought out these capsules, they became a huge success all over Europe and the originals are now very collectible items. Available per unit or in assortments of 12 capsules in gorgeous vintage style display boxes.

Matt unwaxed linen threads

Some people prefer an unwaxed thread, so this is the latest addition to the Fil Au Chinois range. They are presented on cones and are available in six thicknesses. These threads are suitable for both hand and machine sewing. They are resistant enough to be used for leather work and also for the soles of shoes. Some of our clients even use them for embroidering motifs on leather belts and dog collars. The number after the 12 indicates the number of strands used, so for a 12/3, there will be three strands and for a 12/4 there will be 4 strands.
The matt retors linen 12/3 is the finest in the range with a diametre of 0.75 millimetres and 1000 metres on the cone.
The matt retors linen 12/4 has a diametre of 0.85 millimetres, the cone contains 750 metres.
The matt retors linen 12/5 has a diametre of 0.95 millimetres, the cone contains 600 metres.
The matt retors linen 12/6 has a diametre of 1 millimetres, the cone contains 500 metres.
The matt retors linen 12/7 has a diametre of 1.1 millimetres, the cone contains 375 metres.
All the cones of matt retors linen weigh 250 grammes.

Lin Câblé, the king of leathercraft threads from Fil Au Chinois

These corded linen threads are, without a doubt, the most famous of all the threads in the Fil Au Chinois brand. Maison Sajou has been shipping these threads to both professionals and amateurs of leathercraft for years now. Before, these 100% French made threads were mainly destined for the luxury leather brands in France. Their production is complex and requires a unique knowledge.
They are presented on large spools, but Maison Sajou also proposes them on 10 metre cards, enough for smaller objects and a great way to test colours and thicknesses.
The basis of production is the same as the waxed linen threads, but there is obviously something extra. After they have been waxed, brushed and stretched, two already twisted strands are then twisted together, this is known as cording. This process is carried out on humidified threads, which prevents the quality of the linen thread from deteriorating. The result is a thread that is round and even and incredibly strong. Such is the celebrity of these threads, the term Câblé is now used in all languages.
As a rule, because of the wax on these threads, they are not recommended for machine sewing, they were conceived especially for hand stitching. They are extremely popular for fine leatherwork and used by couture houses for their handbags, wallets and belts, but not only. One of our clients also uses it in his oboe to catch the drips! The Fil Au Chinois corded linen thread comes in five thicknesses and 44 colours ranging from the classics to the more audacious.

Fil Au Chinois waxed cable linen 332

The 332 is the widest in the range with a diametre of 0.77 millimetres. It is available on 10 metre cards and on 50 gram spools containing about 133 metres per spool.

Fil Au Chinois waxed cable linen 432

This thread has a diametre of 0.63 millimetres. Available on 10 metre cards and 50 gram spools with roughly 200 metres per spool.

Fil Au Chinois waxed cable linen 532

The diametre of this thread is 0.57 millimetres and can be found on 10 metre cards or 50 gram spools containing roughly 250 metres per spool.

Fil Au Chinois waxed cable linen 632

This thread has a diametre of 0.51 millimetres. It is available on 10 metre cards and 50 gram spools with about 285 metres thread length.

Fil Au Chinois waxed cable linen 832

The finest of the range and perfect for delicate leatherwork, the diametre is 0.43 millimetres. Available on 10 metre cards and 50 gram spools containing roughly 375 metres of thread.

We also have available a printed colour chart for these cable linen threads and a sample card with a piece of thread in each thickness, to give you a better idea on sizing.

To complete our already sizeable offer in leatherwork threads, Maison Sajou also has the following for you: .

Fil Au Chinois Spécial Maroquinerie waxed polycotton thread:

However marvellous they may be, sometimes linen threads cannot be used in leatherwork. This is true for items that can be exposed to humidity. Linen dries slowly and over time risks deterioration. For saddlery and shoemaking, it is preferable to use a polycotton thread. The Fil Au Chinois polycotton thread is a high-resistance polyester thread which is coated with cotton during spinning. It is then assembled and twisted in three strands, the waxed in the same way as the linen thread. These polycotton Spécial Maroquinerie threads are available in 4 thicknesses and the same 44 colours as the Lin Câblé. They are available in large and small cones.

Fil Au Chinois Polycotton Spécial Maroquinerie 50/3

The number 3 indicates that this thread has three twisted strands. With a diametre of 0.36 millimetres, it is the finest in the range. The small cones contain 1000 metres of thread and the large cones have 4000 metres.

Fil Au Chinois Polycotton Spécial Maroquinerie 28/2

The number 2 indicates that this thread has two twisted strands. The diametre is 0.38 millimetres. The small cones contain 900 metres of thread and the large cones have 3500 metres.

Fil Au Chinois Polycotton Spécial Maroquinerie 28/3

As you have now got the idea, this thread is composed of three twisted strands and has a diametre of 0.45 millimetres. The small cones have 700 metres of thread and the large ones contain 2300 metres.

Fil Au Chinois Polycotton Spécial Maroquinerie28/4

With four twisted strands, this is the thickest thread in the range with a diametre of 0.52 millimetres. Available on small cones with 500 metres of thread or large cones with 1750 metres.

The numbers for the Fil Au Chinois Spécial Maroquinerie thread are expressed in Metric Number (NM in French) which means the yarn count for our overseas buddies. You can find an article on metric numbering in Madame Sajou’s Diary.

Fil Au Chinois polyester Special Shoemaking thread

This thread for shoemaking is available on 50 gram spools containing 750 metre or smaller spools if your needs are not industrial. It is available in 23 colours and has a diametre of 0.625 millimetres.

A sample card with our polyester and polycotton thread is available so you can get an idea on the feel and thickness of each of these threads.

Specialist needles for leatherwork

You will find a selection of needles on our site conceived for leatherwork, with their special triangular tips or the famous curved needles in a range of different sizes.

Using a sewing machine for leather

There are so many different sewing machines on the market, both professional and domestic. We are not specialists in sewing machines and would strongly recommend that you do a trial run before using our threads. As mentioned above, the wax can sometimes cause problems with the smooth running of the machine.

Maison Sajou – partners of leatherworkers

With our large offer of threads, we are proud to count among our clients luxury leather goods companies, shoe makers, saddlers and others in the leather industry. Do not hesitate to contact us.