- Menu
- EMBROIDERY
-
SEWING
-
HOME - GOODS
-
LEATHERWORK
- MAISON SAJOU
- BARGAINS
- BLOG
- CONTACT
Indienne floral fabrics by the metre
Origin of indienne floral fabrics
Nowadays printed fabrics are commonplace. But maybe you didn’t know that these printed cottons were the reason for fierce battles until relatively recently. For a very long time, Europe was ignorant in weaving cotton and even more so in fixing colours after printing. It was not until the beginning of the 18th century that manufactories in Rouen started weaving cotton of a suitable quality. In India, however, they had been weaving and printing cotton of a superior quality for centuries.
Discover below the incredible story of these cotton indienne fabrics which unleashed such fervour.
Discover below the incredible story of these cotton indienne fabrics which unleashed such fervour.
Price indicated is per metre, 110cm width.
Here, our fabrics are sold by the metre. They are also available in swatches.
Here, our fabrics are sold by the metre. They are also available in swatches.
➜ Click here to find out more about Indienne floral fabrics by the metre
The arrival of the first indiennes in Europe
The first indiennes were brought to Europe by Portuguese navigators. This was followed by the different India Trading Companies founded in England (1600), Holland (1602), Denmark (1612) and Sweden (1631). France came along much later, embroiled and weakened by years of religious wars, in 1664. This same year, the first cargo of indienne fabric arrived in Marseille, where the motifs were quickly copied by local ateliers, never quite reaching the same quality or finesse.
The original fabrics from India depicted exotic flowers and birds, then unknown in Europe, as well as Hindu symbols, full of mystery and charm.
With an ever-growing demand for fabrics in Europe, instructions were sent to the different Indian Companies requesting them to produce fabrics corresponding to European tastes.
The original fabrics from India depicted exotic flowers and birds, then unknown in Europe, as well as Hindu symbols, full of mystery and charm.
With an ever-growing demand for fabrics in Europe, instructions were sent to the different Indian Companies requesting them to produce fabrics corresponding to European tastes.
In our section on indienne fabrics in swatches, by clicking on Find out more…, you can read a fascinating article on the fabrication of indiennes.
The Indienne wars
The ever-growing success of indienne fabrics was not always a smooth ride. The fabrics were initially imported from India as a side line to the spice trade. However, they proved so popular that they fast overtook all other trade. This import of cheaper, more colourful and popular cloths was a disaster for domestic weavers, spinners and dyers. In England, the Encouragement of Manufactures Act was passed in 1698, blocking the importation of cotton cloth. It was not illegal, however, to sell imported cotton textiles, thus leading to an increase in smuggling. The Calico Act of 1721 put an end to this by banning the sales of most cotton textiles.
France suffered the same fate earlier in 1686 with a ban on imports of cotton textiles from India, going even further in prohibiting their imitation on the domestic market. The prohibition was finally lifted in 1759 after 73 years.
This prohibition was not the most successful and served only to make these printed fabrics even more popular. The ladies of the court flagrantly clothed themselves in these prints and even the wives of the intendants charged with enforcing the regulation flouted the ban. Madame de Pompadour decorated her Bellevue Chateau with black market fabrics. Despite large fines and even incarceration, clandestine ateliers flourished, setting themselves up in secluded areas which escaped control. Certain aristocrats also obtained special exemption, enabling them to print fabrics for their personal use, such as the Duke of Bourbon, who had his own mill in Chantilly.
France suffered the same fate earlier in 1686 with a ban on imports of cotton textiles from India, going even further in prohibiting their imitation on the domestic market. The prohibition was finally lifted in 1759 after 73 years.
This prohibition was not the most successful and served only to make these printed fabrics even more popular. The ladies of the court flagrantly clothed themselves in these prints and even the wives of the intendants charged with enforcing the regulation flouted the ban. Madame de Pompadour decorated her Bellevue Chateau with black market fabrics. Despite large fines and even incarceration, clandestine ateliers flourished, setting themselves up in secluded areas which escaped control. Certain aristocrats also obtained special exemption, enabling them to print fabrics for their personal use, such as the Duke of Bourbon, who had his own mill in Chantilly.
Smuggling – a booming business
The largest quantity of indiennes in France at the time were contraband. Ironically, the majority of contraband cloths came from mills owned by Protestants, after having been chased out of France. This, and the incessant exemptions awarded to the Indian Trade Company, itself belonging to the State! With the support of John Law, the New Indian Trade Company was authorised to import all the banned cloths for exportation. The ports of Lorient and Nantes were allowed to stock these cloths, normally destined to leave for other lands. Needless to say, many boats after leaving these ports, ended up off-loading further along the French coast.
The port of Marseille played an important role in smuggling. In 1720, Le Grand Saint Antoine covertly unloaded a large quantity of cloth, thus escaping the normally compulsory quarantine. Unfortunately, the cloths were contaminated and les to a plague epidemic which resulted in 50 000 deaths in the region.
To avoid repeating such a disaster, the importation of fabrics from India and the Orient was again authorised. Faced with the persistence of the fashion for indiennes and the harmful effects of prohibition, those in power had no other choice than to lift the ban.
The port of Marseille played an important role in smuggling. In 1720, Le Grand Saint Antoine covertly unloaded a large quantity of cloth, thus escaping the normally compulsory quarantine. Unfortunately, the cloths were contaminated and les to a plague epidemic which resulted in 50 000 deaths in the region.
To avoid repeating such a disaster, the importation of fabrics from India and the Orient was again authorised. Faced with the persistence of the fashion for indiennes and the harmful effects of prohibition, those in power had no other choice than to lift the ban.
In the section dedicated to all of our products on the theme of indiennes, by clicking on Find out more…, you can discover the origins of the names given to indiennes: painted cloth, calico, chintz, kalencars, Palampores chintz, nankeen, khaddar, poplin, muslin, twill, batiste, percale…
Happy days for the fabric industry
The 5th September 1759 a judgement grants the freedom to print cotton fabrics. Along with this judgement, a tax was put on all importations coming from abroad.
This liberalisation led to a number of mills being installed in France – in Normandy, Picardie, Provence, Languedoc, Champagne, Burgundy, Brittany and even in Paris!
Some of these regions specialised in a new type of print of pastoral scenes with characters, which became widely renowned as Toile de Jouy. These productions were of the highest quality and participated to the success of the mills in Nantes, Mulhouse and of course, Jouy-en-Josas.
From 1760, a few months after the lifting of the ban on printing indiennes, Christophe Philippe Oberkampf and his three associates rented a property in Jouy-en-Josas to install their manufactory.
This liberalisation led to a number of mills being installed in France – in Normandy, Picardie, Provence, Languedoc, Champagne, Burgundy, Brittany and even in Paris!
Some of these regions specialised in a new type of print of pastoral scenes with characters, which became widely renowned as Toile de Jouy. These productions were of the highest quality and participated to the success of the mills in Nantes, Mulhouse and of course, Jouy-en-Josas.
From 1760, a few months after the lifting of the ban on printing indiennes, Christophe Philippe Oberkampf and his three associates rented a property in Jouy-en-Josas to install their manufactory.
The Maison Sajou indienne fabrics collection
Maison Sajou offers a wide range of indienne fabrics, both by the metre and in swatches. In our collection, you will find some indienne fabrics that are true stars:
- Les Coquecigrues, by the metre, in 50 x 70 cm swatches and in cross-stitch kit,
- The indienne from Napoleon’s campaign tent, by the metre, in 50 x 70 cm swatches and in cross-stitch kit,
- The pineapple from the private apartments of the queen at Versailles Palace, by the metre, in 50 x 70 cm swatches and in cross-stitch kit,
You can also take a look at our section featuring all of our products on the theme of indiennes.
And of course, our series of cross-stitch projects on the theme of indiennes in our Museums and Heritage embroidery collection.
Indienne fabrics are also featured in our embroideries dedicated to the Oberkampf Manufacture in Jouy-en-Josas.
Showing 1-32 of 46 item(s)
Active filters
Indienne cotton fabric n°79 - grey base
Price
€18.33
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°01 - red base
Price
€18.33
(7 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°03 - blue base
Price
€18.33
(2 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°04 - cream base
Price
€18.33
(6 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°05 - mustard base
Price
€18.33
(2 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°07 - pale blue base
Price
€18.33
(1 review)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°08 - dark pink base
Price
€18.33
(1 review)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°09 - cream base
Price
€18.33
(3 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°10 - cream base
Price
€18.33
(2 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°11 - dark pink base
Price
€18.33
(1 review)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°13 - ecru base
Price
€18.33
(1 review)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°14 - mustard base
Price
€18.33
(2 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°15 - cream base
Price
€18.33
(3 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°22 - yellow base
Price
€18.33
(1 review)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°24 - tea base
Price
€18.33
(1 review)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°36 - ecru base
Price
€18.33
(2 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°25 - ecru base
Price
€18.33
(5 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°28 - grey blue base
Price
€18.33
(2 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°32 - tea base
Price
€18.33
(3 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°35 - orange base
Price
€18.33
(1 review)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°39 - cream base
Price
€18.33
(4 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°40 - corral base
Price
€18.33
(3 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°41 - duck base
Price
€18.33
(2 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°34 - sand base
Price
€18.33
(4 reviews)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°65 - ecru base
Price
€18.33
(1 review)
Indienne floral cotton fabric n°66 - ecru base
Price
€18.33