We have named these cocoons « Calais » as a tribute to the northern French town, famous for their mechanical lace. At the beginning of the 19th century, it was in Calais that English industrial pioneers installed the first looms with the desire to imitate hand-made lace. The superb lace museum in Calais retraces the history of this craft which first appeared in the 16th century.
Following the success of our Calais cocoons, the Caudry cocoons were named in tribute to the small town of the same name in the north of France, famous for their hand lace before machines took over. There is a Museum of Lace and Embroidery in Caudry with working machines and a lovely collection of lace dresses.
Caudry Museum of Lace and Embroidery.
Following an age-old tradition, lace threads are graded according to an English numbering system (NE), which correspond to the number of skeins measuring 840 yards (768.1 metres) per English pound (453.6 grammes). The lower the number, the thicker the thread and the higher the number, the finer the thread. This is a N° 24 thread (the thickest in the range), formed of three strands, thus it is referred to as 24/3.
For those who wish to calculate the English numbering (NE) into metric numbering (NM) to determine the number of metres of thread contained in a kilo of thread, the method is quite easy. Simply divide the English number by 0.5905.
The size of our matt linen thread is expressed in metric number (NM), which corresponds to the number of metres per gram or the number of kilometres per kilogram. It is said that to express the thickness of a thread by a metric number is a false friend: the indicated number is proportionally the opposite of the thickness of the thread. Thus, a NM 10 is thicker than a NM 100.
These N°15 metallized thread reels are recommended for bobbin lace, crochet, embroidery and, of course, jewellery making, as they do not fray.
As well as our large supply of lace threads, Sajou also has pins and picots, a pattern book edited with the Centre d'enseignement de la dentelle du Puy, bobbins and storage boxes.
Here are the Lebaufil N°8 special cotton yarn and roving which are used for stuffing motifs in boutis and trapunto, two different but similar techniques of quilting.
The cotton yarn can also be used for knotted quilting, a simple form of quilting often used in the past for eiderdowns. It can prove to be a decorative form of quilting and just as sturdy as traditional methods of stitching.
The XF brand is known for their balls of darning thread. It is an old brand from Lille which, like many others, distributed their threads under different names, the best known being “Au Franc d’Or” and “Au Bon Lorrain”. XF was acquired by Etablissements Vrau in the 1980’s. Along with Fil Au Chinois, Laine Saint-Pierre and Fil Au Conscrit, this brand was taken over by Ets. Toulemonde when they bought Vrau in 2007. The XF knitting and crochet cotton is available in four thicknesses, in white and ecru. It can also be used for embroidery and hardanger.